Visit To Mystras
The history of Greece is much more complicated than I originally imagined. It has so many historical layers: Ancient Greek, Roman, Byzantine, Ottoman, modern Greek. These layers blend and over lap in sometimes complicated and confusing ways, but sometimes and in some places, one layer is clear. That's Mystras.
Mystras is the most important Byzantine site in Greece (according to the Rick Steves guide book). The Byzantine architecture and frescoes are on display mainly in the churches scattered along the mountainside. For a history and art enthusiast, Mystras was a fascinating stop.
Walking tour of Mystras
The site at Mystras is strewn across a mountainside so the bus dropped us off at the top entrance and we wound our way down, stopping along the way.
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Our local guide was great. He was the son of an Orthodox priest, so he had great insight into the culture and history of the churches we toured. He told us of the services that took place and the chants that were sung. At one point, he asked us, "Would you like to hear what it sounded like?" Of course we all said yes, and he gave a moving rendition of the chant that echoed gently through the ruins. Living history.
I was amazed at the amount and the quality of the frescoes painted all around the site. To see the beauty of these remnants, it's hard to imagine them in their full and pristine condition. It must have been something to see.
The last place we stopped before leaving Mystras was the little convent where six nuns still live and work. They have a little gift shop to help fund the convent and we were allowed to browse through. Since I enjoy supporting local artisans, I decided to buy something--small enough to carry in my ever-expanding backpack.
I found two pieces I liked and showed them to the nun. She pointed at one, then pointed to a list of numbers written on a cardboard sheet, indicating the price. Then she pointed to the other piece I was holding and then pointed to another number on the cardboard. I added it up, nodded my head in approval, and pulled a bill out of my wallet. I handed it to the little nun and did my best to say thank you in Greek.
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We left the little convent and met back up with our bus to head to modern Sparta for a quick lunch before moving on to Napflio.