Kardamyli
We saw many beautiful places in Greece, but it was hard to surpass the wild, natural, raw beauty of Kardamyli.
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There really aren't any museums to visit here. But you don't really miss them. The historical sights seemed still integrated into the living community. This is a place you experience just by immersing yourself in the local feel--from the coast, to the village, to the mountain trails.
Arriving at our hotel and dinner
We arrived in the little town of Kardamyli around 5 or 6 PM. When we got to the hotel I settled in trying to decide what to do. I spent a while sketching out some of the designs and motifs we had seen at the museums and I did a little painting. Before I knew it, I was ready for dinner. We would mostly be on our own for the next few meals so I took Colin's advice and set out for a little taverna. It was a great decision: nice big salad, bread, chicken in lemon-and-basil sauce, and a glass of red wine. After dinner, I walked back to the hotel and turned in early since I planned on getting up early tomorrow to start exploring.
Early morning hike
I am not what you would call a morning person, but rather than sleep in on my free day in Kardamyli, I decided to get an early start on exploring the area. I was out the door by 7 AM on the trail into the hills to see the sights. It was still cool and there was hardly another soul on the trail so it was quiet and peaceful and perfect for taking photos. I passed by the medieval ruins of Old Kardamyli (now partially restored with museum and church) planning on visiting it on my way back. I took the path to the right which led up to an old Byzantine church called Agia Sophia perched on the top of the hill.
The views along the way were just amazing. you could look out over the green valley and on into the blue sea under a bright blue sky. I stopped to take some photos and soak up the view then continued up the path. I soon reached the lonely, little church. It was a beautiful building but it was locked so I couldn't go inside. I took some photos, wandered around, and even followed the trail a little further up into the hills before turning back. I rambled down the trail stopping often to take photos or to greet other people now heading up the trail.
On the walk back down I stopped to explore Old Kardamyli. It was still too early to visit the museum, but I was able to wander through the ruins. There were many interesting little rooms, storage areas, even a tower that --put together--gave a picture of what it must have been like to live here centuries ago when the villagers took refuge from pirates and marauders. In one room there was still a round, flat table that I was later told was an olive press. After a while of wandering through the ruins, I decided to leave and head back.
As I walked back to the main entrance near the old church, I noticed a group of people gathering around the door of the church. I was curious so I just stayed back and watched. It soon became apparent that this was a wedding party taking some photos. The people were happy and excited and clearly enjoying the event. The photographer guided the kids and adults into places around the bride and groom and took some photos before they all disappeared into the church.
I thought it was interesting to see this mix of old and new: old church in Old Kardamyli, new life starting for a young couple. That's something I noticed in Greece. The line between old and new isn't as bold as it is in America. There is a continuity, a connection, a respect, maybe even an affection for the past, for the history of a place by its community. I thought it was a very wise and healthy attitude.
Relaxing afternoon and evening
I left Old Kardamyli after the wedding party entered the church and I wondered back to the main town. After getting some water, a loaf of sweet bread, and a bag of cashews, I made my way to the beach for a late breakfast. I saw people here and there playing in the water, having fun. I grew up in Southern California and I love playing in the ocean but I hadn't even gotten in the water yet, partly because the beaches can be rocky and I didn't have any water shoes.
After watching the people around me having so much fun, I couldn't resist it. I had to get into the water, but even if I just waded in a ways I would need some foot wear. I remembered passing a sport shop near the grocery store, so I gathered up my breakfast and my camera bag and made my way there. In a few minutes I came out with a pair of navy blue and yellow Crocs. Not the kind of souvenir I had planned on getting but light and practical (I still have them and use them often--turned out to be a pretty good buy.)
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After some time wading around in the Ionian Sea I wandered around the town some more, taking photos and just enjoying not having a schedule. Around one, I found a little restaurant and had a salad for lunch. There was not a thing on the agenda until 6 PM when Colin invited us to a talk about olive oil by a local expert. So, for the rest of the afternoon, I enjoyed just hanging out at the beach, wandering around town, and taking some photos.
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Since the evening olive oil talk was optional, I wasn't sure how many of our group would show up, but it seemed like almost everyone did. It was quite interesting. Yiannis seemed like an expert on the local Kardamyli olives, herbs, and plants. His little store was filled with his homemade products.
I liked getting a perspective of Kardamyli from someone who knew it so well. And I definitly decided to start making (good) olive oil a part of my diet. Even the cats in the corner seemed to like the lecture. (You see so many cats in Greece, after a while you hardly notice them.)
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After the talk, a group of us (ten or twelve) had dinner together at the same restaurant where I had lunch. We had a great time talking and eating.
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When we finished dinner, I went back to my room and packed up to leave in the morning. It was too early for bed so I decided to do some painting and journaling for a while. Another great day.
